From Labels to Lifecycle: How ADEME and China's 30:60 Plan are Redefining Fashion

 “100% Natural,” “Healthy,” “Eco-friendly,” even “Purifies the Air”… These brand slogans are no stranger to consumers concerned with sustainability. An increasing number of clothing brands are incorporating these claims into their products, capturing our attention. However, consumers often remain skeptical about these statements.

Faced with an ever-growing variety of fabrics and slogans in today’s market, how can one determine the environmental attributes of a garment? One potential solution is to take inspiration from the eco-label system developed by France and the European Union: EU Ecolabel.

The EU Ecolabel is represented by a logo featuring a small green flower, earning it the nickname “the European Flower.” Products awarded this label are often referred to as “flower-labeled products.”

What Is an Eco-label?

Eco-labels serve a dual purpose: to promote products with a lower environmental impact across their entire lifecycle (from “cradle to grave”) compared to standard goods of similar use, and to provide consumers with an easily recognizable tool.

Characteristics of the EU Ecolabel

The EU Ecolabel is an official certification established in 1992, applicable in all EU member states. It is designed to promote products (both goods and services) that respect the environment and human health throughout their lifecycle, from raw material extraction to usage, including manufacturing. In France, the French Environment and Energy Management Agency (ADEME) is responsible for implementing policies related to the EU Ecolabel.

ADEME: An Overview

In 1990, France established ADEME as an independent and integrated agency under the central government. Reporting directly to the President, ADEME oversees nationwide energy conservation and pollution control efforts. Local governments also maintain corresponding agencies.

ADEME’s key roles include funding research institutions and technical development projects across regions, focusing on three main priorities:

Developing high-environmental-efficiency waste treatment industries.

Advancing sustainable energy management.

Improving transportation efficiency to reduce air pollution.

ADEME’s operational expenses are sourced from the central financial budget but are independently managed. The agency submits its annual budget and project proposals through the Ministries of Environment, Industry, and Research and Education to the Ministry of Finance. Local governments also allocate funds to support ADEME’s regional offices, while the agency bids for EU projects as well.

Overall, ADEME’s budget is derived from four sources: the Ministry of Environment, the Ministry of Industry, the Ministry of Research and Education, the EU, and local governments in France. More than 50% of its budget is allocated to energy efficiency and renewable energy projects, with the remaining funds directed toward solid waste management, administrative costs, personnel salaries, and travel expenses.

Governments typically do not compete with the market in areas where challenges cannot be addressed effectively. Instead, they use appropriate incentives and constraints to guide market players toward proactive roles. The EU Ecolabel (EE) is a prime example of this approach. ADEME establishes standards and policies for EE while promoting awareness among the public.

Benefits of the EU Ecolabel for Businesses

Companies that obtain the EE label can enjoy the following benefits:

1. Enhancing product quality and reaching a broader customer base (70% of French consumers recognize EE).
2. Reducing the environmental impact of their products or services.
3. Gaining recognition across the European market.
4. Accessing financial opportunities related to the EU Ecolabel.
5. Potential eligibility for subsidies, particularly from ADEME.

Eco-labeling in China

Undoubtedly, the “greening” of products has become a trend in the international consumer goods market. China’s eco-label is an official certification trademark awarded to products that meet quality standards and specific environmental protection requirements. Compared to similar products, eco-labeled goods exhibit lower toxicity, reduced environmental harm, and better resource efficiency.

However, public awareness of China’s eco-label still requires improvement. More efforts are needed to enhance its visibility and understanding among consumers.

From a European perspective, EE eco-labels are more official and trustworthy to consumers. Friends who like to buy European products can pay more attention to this information. But friends who have higher requirements for sustainable consumption may have more requirements for brands/suppliers. For example, they prefer to be able to evaluate the impact of each piece of clothing on the environment at a glance, so that they can buy products that really meet their requirements for environmental protection attributes with confidence.

France, which attaches great importance to environmental protection and social responsibility, is also introducing a new rule of great reference through the leadership of ADEME in this regard.

ADEME has pre-deployed an environmental labeling project for the fashion industry. This initiative provides consumers with comparable information across different brands and even among various products within the same brand. The project has four main objectives:

• Promote Transparency: Empower consumers to make informed choices.
• Encourage Lifecycle Optimization: Motivate brand teams to identify and implement improvements at every stage of the product lifecycle.
  Example: A traditional cotton T-shirt rated “E” in 2019 was redesigned with ecological considerations, achieving a “B” rating in 2020.
• Foster Industry Collaboration: Engage as many textile stakeholders as possible to encourage manufacturers and distributors to improve their products’ environmental performance, thereby reshaping the textile industry’s future.
• Raise Responsible Consumption Awareness: Contribute to planetary protection by educating consumers about their clothing care habits.
  Example: Washing temperature, water usage, cleaning products, and appliance energy consumption all have significant environmental impacts. Consumer awareness and behavioral changes in these areas are critical.

The Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) System

The performance evaluation standards for France’s textile industry were submitted to the European Commission in 2022. These standards support the implementation of the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) system, an environmental policy tool requiring manufacturers to take responsibility for managing their products’ end-of-life disposal. The EPR system aims to reduce textile waste, improve resource recycling, and drive sustainable development.

Developments Since 2022

After France’s submission of the EPR standards in 2022, the system became a reference for other EU nations developing similar policies. In 2023, the European Commission proposed unified EPR regulations to encourage the collection, sorting, reuse, and recycling of textiles. This proposal is part of a broader effort to establish a circular economy framework, ensuring sustainable product design.

Implementation Across Countries

As of now, the EPR system has been implemented to varying degrees in the following nations:

France: EPR regulations were fully enforced in January 2022, making France the first country to apply this policy to the textile industry.

Netherlands: Began implementing EPR in July 2023, requiring producers and importers to manage textile waste.

Hungary: Enforced a mandatory EPR system.

Croatia: Encourages textile manufacturers to ensure the collection of products they place on the market.

Sweden: Initially planned to enforce EPR by January 2022, but recent updates suggest delays.

Greece and Italy: Currently drafting laws to align with EU directives.

Influence of EPR Policies

The evaluation system and the adoption of EPR policies have significantly contributed to the advancement of sustainable fashion and circular economy practices throughout Europe. By requiring manufacturers to take greater responsibility, these policies effectively reduce textile waste and promote resource reuse.

What Is ADEME’s Environmental Label (IMPACT ENVIRONNEMENTAL®)?

The environmental label, represented by letters A to E, is a system designed to quantify the overall environmental impact of clothing. It assigns a rating based on detailed assessments of key factors such as air pollution, water pollution, carbon dioxide emissions, and natural resource consumption. These criteria are carefully scrutinized to measure the impact of a product at every stage of its lifecycle.

This system provides consumers with a valuable benchmark, allowing them to transparently compare the environmental impacts of similar products and make more informed purchasing decisions. It also serves as a tool to advance ecological design methods, aiming to minimize the environmental footprint of all products throughout their lifecycles. By encouraging the development of more responsible alternatives, it promotes the collective respect for the planet and its future.

Every evaluation must be verified by ADEME; however, brands are required to perform the initial calculations themselves. The diversity and complexity of the evaluation criteria pose a significant challenge for brands, as they may lack the capacity to structure and compute individual product ratings effectively.

Consumer Visibility of Environmental Labels

When shopping for clothing, consumers may notice ratings on labels that indicate a product’s environmental impact. An “A” rating corresponds to the smallest environmental impact, while “E” represents the largest. Some brands, such as OKAIDI (a French children’s clothing brand), have pledged to display environmental labels on their websites for transparency.

Trial Phase and Challenges

At present, ADEME’s environmental labeling system is still in its trial phase and is not mandatory. Brands can selectively label individual products based on their circumstances. For instance, in 2019, OKAIDI tested labeling on only 50 products.

Since the system is voluntary, it is likely that brands seeking to attract sustainable consumers will emphasize products with “A” ratings. Conversely, brands are less likely to highlight products with an “E” rating, even if they are available. This selective disclosure could transform the environmental label into a marketing tool rather than a mechanism for full transparency.

Towards a Mandatory System

To prevent this issue and ensure that consumers are well-informed, it would be more effective to transition the system to mandatory use. Similar to regulations for household appliances in France, all products should be required to prominently display this label, even if they receive an “E” rating. Honest representation of ratings would enhance consumer trust and promote accountability among brands.

China’s Role in Sustainable Fashion

As a nation accounting for one-fifth of the global population and ranking first in the world in clothing production, consumption, and exports, China’s advancement in sustainable fashion is undoubtedly a force to be reckoned with. However, efforts made by China in this regard remain relatively unknown to the rest of the world.

1. Green Environmental Label

Similar to France’s ADEME-led environmental labeling system, China established its own Green Environmental Label standards and technical specifications for clothing as early as June 2000. Managed by the China Environmental Labeling Certification Committee, this label encourages companies to produce environmentally compliant products.

Products awarded the Green Label must meet specific environmental requirements, including pollution control during production and efficient resource utilization.

Key Organizations

• China Environmental Labeling Certification Committee: Responsible for certifying eligible products and issuing the Green Label.
• China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC): Actively promotes green development by releasing policies and guidance to encourage textile enterprises to transition toward sustainability.

Implementation and Achievements

In recent years, several well-known Chinese brands, such as Bosideng and Snow Flying, have introduced products with environmental labels. These brands incorporate renewable materials and eco-friendly manufacturing processes to minimize their environmental impact. For instance, Bosideng has launched eco-certified down jackets as part of its commitment to sustainability.

2. The 30:60 Carbon Neutrality Acceleration Plan

This initiative is a significant measure taken by China’s textile industry to align with the country’s dual-carbon goals. Launched by the China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC) in June 2021, the plan aims to support 30 key brands and 60 major manufacturers in pursuing carbon neutrality, thereby promoting sustainable development in the industry.

Dual-Carbon Goals

• Carbon Peak: Refers to the year when carbon dioxide emissions reach their highest level and then begin to decline.
• Carbon Neutrality: Achieving a balance between emitted and absorbed carbon dioxide, resulting in net-zero emissions.

These goals were first announced by President Xi Jinping at the United Nations General Assembly in September 2020. China plans to achieve carbon peak by 2030 and carbon neutrality by 2060. This strategic objective has been incorporated into China’s 14th Five-Year Plan, reflecting the nation’s commitment to green development.

Implementation Progress

As of May 30, 2024, 23 brand enterprises and 42 manufacturing companies have joined the 30:60 Carbon Neutrality Acceleration Plan. These companies actively promote low-carbon technologies and products, aiming to develop reliable low-carbon solutions while supporting sustainable consumption.

Participating Brand Enterprises

• Bosideng: As a leader in China’s textile and apparel industry, Bosideng emphasizes environmental protection and sustainability in product innovation. It integrates technology and fashion, certifies the carbon footprint of its core products, develops innovative bio-based fabrics, builds photovoltaic power facilities, and sets renewable electricity targets for suppliers. Bosideng has achieved an A rating in the MSCI ESG assessment for two consecutive years and improved its CDP Climate Change rating to B, the highest among Chinese textile companies.
• Peacebird: The company has announced a vision for carbon neutrality and launched the industry’s first Xinjiang cotton carbon footprint T-shirt. It conducts life cycle assessments (LCA) and baseline carbon emissions calculations for its products.
• Winner Fashion Group: The group consistently focuses on green products and sustainable consumption, incorporating sustainability concepts into product design, production, and after-sales processes. It collaborates with suppliers and retailers to develop eco-friendly fabrics, incentivizes suppliers, and strengthens “green marketing” strategies.
• Embry Form: For 48 years, the company has championed “Comfortable Elegance” aesthetics. It designates June as its annual “Environmental Awareness Month,” hosting various events to deepen consumer awareness of ecological textiles and promote environmentally friendly behaviors.
• Joeone: Actively supports the 30:60 Carbon Neutrality Acceleration Plan. From 2022 to 2023, the company received an A rating in the ESG assessment and AAA in the listed companies’ social performance assessment.
• Cabbeen: A leading participant in climate innovation, Cabbeen develops innovative eco-tech fabric collections and actively pursues carbon neutrality goals.
• Xtep: As a leader in China’s sportswear industry, Xtep views sustainability as a long-term responsibility and objective. It has invested in innovative green materials and steadily advanced a low-carbon strategy.
• Li-Ning: Acknowledging the importance of sustainable development, Li-Ning integrates sustainability into its corporate strategy. Between 2020 and 2022, Li-Ning conducted carbon audits for 28 suppliers, reducing the carbon emissions associated with clothing materials procurement from 1.35 tons of CO₂ per 1,000 RMB in 2020 to 0.87 tons of CO₂ in 2022.
• Anta: In 2021, Anta launched its “1+3+5” ten-year sustainable development strategy with the core goal of achieving carbon neutrality by 2050. By 2023, Anta reduced greenhouse gas emission intensity by 3.6% and water consumption intensity by 9.0%, despite rapid sales growth.

Participating Manufacturing Companies

• Sateri: Actively innovates to achieve zero-carbon development in the industry and has introduced multiple carbon-neutral products certified under PAS2060 standards.
• Lenzing Group: Continues to lead in sustainable development by pioneering zero-carbon TENCEL™ fibers and expanding zero-carbon applications.
• Meixinda: Implements energy-saving technological upgrades, such as closed-loop steam condensate recovery and alkali wastewater recycling projects, to reduce energy consumption and emissions.
• Debao Chemicals: Utilizes its expertise in polyester-cotton fabrics to develop innovative low-carbon finishing solutions that significantly reduce emissions.
• Huafu Fashion: Invested nearly 200 million RMB in dyeing technology upgrades, achieving significant energy savings and emission reductions at facilities in Zhejiang and Xinjiang.
• Dasheng Group: Built the first smart spinning factory of the 14th Five-Year Plan in China, specializing in zero-carbon fiber production. This factory prioritizes efficiency, energy savings, and environmental comfort.
• Weiqiao Textile: By constructing green, intelligent factories, Weiqiao improves production efficiency, reduces defective rates, and enhances energy utilization, all while implementing flexible, digitalized production.

Analysis and Evaluation of Participating Enterprises

Comprehensive analysis and evaluation of the participating manufacturing and brand enterprises reveal that the vast majority (83%) have set climate targets, with over 50% prioritizing dual-carbon goals as a central objective. Among these enterprises, 62% aim to achieve carbon peak by 2030, earlier than the national target, and 82% plan to achieve carbon neutrality by 2060, also ahead of schedule.

Statistics indicate that the proportion of enterprises undertaking emission reduction projects within their operational scope increased from 41% in 2020 to 71% in 2022. In 2022 alone, total emission reductions reached 200,000 tons, marking a 163% year-on-year growth.

Among various emission reduction initiatives, renewable energy power — predominantly rooftop distributed photovoltaic projects — and energy-saving equipment upgrades are the most common. The use of renewable energy has grown significantly, with the proportion of green electricity in enterprises’ total power consumption rising from 1% in 2018 to 8% in 2022.

Currently, China leads the global textile industry in completing carbon footprint assessments for 110 products. These assessments span 33 brands and nearly 180 manufacturing enterprises.

Challenges Facing the Industry

Despite notable progress in promoting sustainability within the textile industry, China faces several challenges. For instance, small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) often lack the capacity to implement environmental standards effectively. Additionally, issues such as insufficient transparency in information disclosure and relatively low overall Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) performance persist. These areas require further improvement to achieve holistic sustainability.

Conclusion

Green fashion and eco-labeling are essential components of the global movement toward sustainable development. From France’s ADEME-led environmental labeling system to China’s 30:60 Carbon Neutrality Acceleration Plan, both nations have achieved remarkable progress in promoting sustainable production, consumption, and recycling of textiles.

These efforts not only provide consumers with transparent and comparable information but also encourage enterprises to continually optimize the environmental performance of their products.

However, achieving a true green transformation demands stronger regulatory support, broader industry collaboration, and heightened consumer environmental awareness. By persistently advancing policies, technologies, and market integration, the global textile industry can harmonize economic benefits with environmental protection and social responsibility.

This shared vision marks the path toward a sustainable fashion future and represents a goal we must all strive to achieve.

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