How China Became Africa’s Largest Exporter of Secondhand Clothing: Data Reveals Trends and Opportunities

1. When Did China Become Africa’s Largest Exporter of Secondhand Clothing?

In 2021, China officially became the largest exporter of secondhand clothing to Africa. That year, China’s exports of used clothing to Africa reached $624 million, capturing a significant portion of the global secondhand clothing market. According to data, Africa’s total import of secondhand clothing in 2021 amounted to $1.84 billion, with over 40% coming from China. Kenya, Ghana, and Tanzania were among the main markets for Chinese secondhand clothing. For example, Kenya’s import value was $248 million, with over 40% of that from China; Ghana’s import value was $211 million, and 48% of those imports came from China. These figures reflect how China has steadily established a dominant position as Africa’s demand for affordable, high-quality secondhand clothing has surged.

A trade center in Africa with Chinese signage By DODO

2. 2021 to 2023: Changes in Africa’s Secondhand Clothing Import Market

So, after experiencing the pandemic and global economic shifts, is China still Africa’s largest exporter of secondhand clothing?

The data shows that China has maintained its dominant position in Africa’s secondhand clothing market, although the demand in some countries has fluctuated. Here’s a comparison of the latest data from 2023:

Kenya: In 2023, Kenya’s secondhand clothing imports amounted to $274 million, an 11% increase from $248 million in 2021. China’s exports to Kenya reached $145 million, accounting for 53% of the total imports, up significantly from 40% in 2021. First-quarter data for 2024 shows continued growth, with Kenya’s imports rising by 5% year-on-year from the first quarter of 2023, indicating that demand for Chinese secondhand clothing remains strong【Source: The Observatory of Economic Complexity】.
Ghana: In 2023, Ghana’s secondhand clothing imports were approximately $190 million, down from $211 million in 2021, likely due to policy changes and global economic instability. China’s exports to Ghana reached $46 million, representing 24% of total imports, a significant decrease from 48% in 2021. This decline was mainly driven by Ghana’s increased import duties on secondhand clothing, which raised costs and suppressed demand【Source: Ghana National Association】.
Tanzania: In 2022, Tanzania’s secondhand clothing imports reached $185 million, slightly up from $183 million in 2021. China remained Tanzania’s primary supplier, accounting for 52% of total imports. This stable figure shows that Tanzania’s demand for Chinese secondhand clothing has remained consistent【Source: The Observatory of Economic Complexity】.

These data points indicate that while the Ghanaian market has seen a downturn, demand for secondhand clothing in Kenya and Tanzania is still on the rise. China continues to hold a significant market share and influence in the African secondhand clothing industry.

3. In-Depth Analysis: Different Growth Trends in Key African Countries’ Secondhand Clothing Markets

The variation in secondhand clothing import trends across African countries can be attributed to several complex factors. Here’s a deeper look at the differing trends in Ghana, Kenya, and Tanzania:

Policy Differences and Tariff Structures
Between 2021 and 2023, Ghana significantly raised import duties on secondhand clothing by 153%, directly increasing the cost of imports. This led to a decline in consumer demand as higher prices made secondhand clothing less affordable【Source: The Ghana Report】. In contrast, Kenya and Tanzania have maintained more relaxed policies, allowing secondhand clothing to flow freely. This regulatory stability has supported the continuous growth of the secondhand clothing market in these countries.

Market Demand and Purchasing Power
Consumers in Kenya and Tanzania continue to belong largely to low- and middle-income groups, for whom secondhand clothing is an affordable option. In Kenya, in particular, the price advantage of secondhand clothing has made it highly competitive in the market【Source: Ghana National Association】. On the other hand, Ghana’s higher tariffs have diminished the purchasing power of its consumers, reducing their demand for secondhand clothing.
Supply Chain Management and Market Competitiveness
Kenya, as a logistics hub for East Africa, has well-developed infrastructure for the efficient import and distribution of secondhand clothing【Source: The Observatory of Economic Complexity】. Ghana, however, faces challenges with its weaker logistics infrastructure and slower customs clearance processes, which increase the difficulty and cost of importing secondhand clothing.

Balancing Local Production and Imports
The Ghanaian government has sought to reduce reliance on secondhand clothing by promoting its domestic textile industry. However, due to insufficient competitiveness in the textile sector, this policy has not significantly improved the local market. Instead, it has constrained market vitality【Source: Ghana National Association】. In contrast, Kenya and Tanzania have adopted more flexible policies, allowing for the import of secondhand clothing while simultaneously modernizing local industries【Source: The Ghana Report】.

Additionally, Ghana’s GDP growth rate slowed from 6.1% in 2021 to 4.7% in 2023 following the implementation of import restrictions. This economic slowdown further underscores the negative impact that restricting secondhand clothing imports can have on the economy【Source: World Bank】.

4. China’s Advantages in Secondhand Clothing: Why It Became Africa’s Largest Supplier

China’s dominance as Africa’s largest secondhand clothing supplier is driven by more than just price. Here are five key advantages China holds over its Western competitors:

Price Advantage
Thanks to low production costs and a well-established supply chain, China offers secondhand clothing with high cost-efficiency. The country’s manufacturing base and abundant labor allow it to reduce costs in every stage of recycling, sorting, and packaging. China’s efficient e-commerce logistics network also ensures that secondhand clothing can be shipped quickly to African markets【Source: Five things to know about the Chinese logistics market for 2022 | McKinsey & Textile and garment supply chains in times of COVID-19: challenges for developing countries | UNCTAD】.
Supply Chain Responsiveness
China boasts world-class logistics infrastructure and technology, allowing it to respond quickly to the demands of African markets. When faced with varying logistics and customs challenges in different African countries, Chinese suppliers have demonstrated flexibility and adaptability. For example, China’s DODO Bird platform integrates supply chains with robust factory management systems, enabling secondhand clothing to be recycled, sorted, and shipped within 10 days.

Variety in Style and Color
Chinese secondhand clothing is not only affordable but also diverse in style and color, catering to the aesthetic preferences of African consumers. Unlike the more minimalist, black-and-white tones often found in Western clothing, Chinese secondhand garments are vibrant, uniquely designed, and diverse in style, which appeals to younger consumers. Many Chinese brands also offer trendy fashion, making them more attractive to African markets【Source: The Observatory of Economic Complexity】.
Size Compatibility
Chinese secondhand clothing offers a wide range of sizes, particularly suited to the diverse body types of African consumers. Unlike Western clothing, which often adopts an oversized fit, Chinese garments focus more on tailored fits and sizes that are more in line with the body shapes of African consumers. This makes Chinese secondhand clothing more appealing, as African consumers tend to prefer clothes that are both fitted and comfortable.
Quality Advantage
China is not only the world’s largest producer, consumer, and exporter of clothing, but African consumers are increasingly recognizing the quality of Chinese brands. China’s leadership in clothing production and export ensures that secondhand clothing from China is durable and of high quality, meeting African consumers’ need for value and reliability. Additionally, more and more African consumers are drawn to clothing featuring Chinese characters and unique designs, signaling the growing cultural influence of Chinese brands【Source: China Textiles and Clothing Exports by country 2022 | WITS Data】.

5. Opportunities and Outlook for Africa’s Secondhand Clothing Market

As global attention on environmental protection and sustainable development grows, the secondhand clothing market is expected to expand further and play an increasingly important role in the future. At the same time, we must also be mindful of the changes in demand for secondhand clothing in Africa and the potential risks in the market:

Diverse Market Demand
The needs of African consumers are becoming increasingly diversified. In addition to affordable clothing, more African consumers are beginning to focus on quality and brand recognition, particularly their growing preference for Chinese brands and garments featuring Chinese characters. This trend indicates that high-standard Chinese secondhand clothing brands will capture a larger market share in the future. With a stable supply chain and innovative management models, Chinese companies are well-positioned to meet these niche demands.
The Impact and Concerns of Import Bans
Meanwhile, countries like Ghana have imposed bans on secondhand clothing imports, and we must be cautious about the negative effects such policies could have. As I analyzed in a previous article, banning secondhand clothing could lead to economic stagnation and increased social pressure. For more insights, read my detailed analysis: The Reality and Future of Africa’s Secondhand Clothing Market.

The opportunities in Africa’s secondhand clothing market are undoubtedly vast, but they also come with challenges. To maintain China’s competitiveness

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